Estee More Rich Black
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HOLD THE FRONT PAGE
HOLD THE FRONT PAGE
THE new year's style news divides into two main camps, conservative chic and fab funk. For conservative chic, think ladylike smart suits, the knee-length skirt with a sleeveless "shell" top or the sleeveless dress in every possible permutation (from Jodie Boffa) worn with boxy or fitted jackets (Chanel). Mix it with a cashmere cardigan, big Jackie O sunglasses, headscarf (Chanel), supple kid gloves, kitten-heeled christian louboutin shoes with a slingback (Prada), adorable little handbags (you know the kind that really are handbags with a little handle you hold in delicately manicured hands. The newest shape is boxy at Chanel or gold or summer wicker at Ferragamo). Add a string of real pearls (resurrect your 21st birthday string, go for Broome pearls or faux from Chanel or Jan Logan). The shirtwaister dress appears again from the "banal eccentricity" previewed in Prada's next summer collection to classic Yves Saint Laurent. The quilted parka, for day or night, lives in the international collections (at Ferre worn with narrow cigarette pants).
The look in the funky camp is jewelcoloured velvet hipsters and satin body shirts and wide belts in car-paint finishes with silver horse bit. The look of the season from Gucci's designer, Tom Ford, it was worn late this year by Madonna with the full '60s teased mane. People have been known to sob in Gucci overseas when they couldn't get their velvet hipsters. Pantsuits galore in velvet, lame, shantung or satin (Gucci, Boffa, Ferre, Emporio Armani). Man-style hipster trousers (Third Millenium ) or cigarette pants. Jersey body shirts (think '70s Bee Gees). Marcs is doing an array of women's body shirts in metallics, jersey and satin. The zip-front jacket in stretch fabric is omnipresent in collections worldwide. The '70s sack strung over the shoulder in metallic patent (Gucci) and back again in fringed brown suede (D&G by Dolce & Gabbana for next summer).
STOP PRESS
LACE, lace and more lace. Transparent layers. Lace over nude slips by Collette Dinnigan. At Chanel, lace tops with long satin skirts and wide satin belts. Velvet and satin gleams. This season's accessory is thelapel rose in velvet or satin, coming soon to Emporio. Gleam, sheen, shimmer and shine: bugle beads and sequins reign at Giorgio and on the funky side in Katharine Hamnett's collection for next summer.
Leather: not since the '70s have we seen so much of it, from elegant to hip. Glove-soft leather suits with skirts or pants. Black is big (Gucci, Country Road), but so are rich winter colours, white (Third Millenium) and sorbet colours for next summer. Metallic car-paint finishes in bags,louboutin shoes and the new knee-length boots. Vinyl car-coats from young Australian labels like Zimmermann and Bare.
Anything in camel, or "nude". Even those fashion editors who only wear black at the collections were sporting camel coats (Max Mara, Jil Sander) with Prada's nude must-have slingback with kitten heel in pearly patent.
Animal prints, again: add a touch of faux pony, leopard or tiger for winter (Von Troska). Next summer, whip out the tiger or leopard chiffon - Dolce & Gabbana are wild about it.
Beauty is nude: shell pink, beige and camel for summer, and jewel-coloured metallics for winter. (Sky-blue eye shadow was big in collections for next summer). Pale manicured nails in a short, squared-off shape.
Big hair is back: either structured and teased '60s style, and turned under with a little headband, or the funky, tousled just-got-out-of-bed look - only for the very young who still look good when they've just got out of bed.
Estee Lauder's new fragrance, Pleasures, fronted by the fresh-faced Liz Hurley in flowered fields with fat puppy dogs, is already big worldwide and arrives here in March. Chanel's first new fragrance in a decade, Allure, is still very much under wraps. It will be released here in September.
SPIKED
FORGET that ghoulish dark nail polish. Vamp mania is moribund unless you are Morticia Addams. Lacquered, pointy talons have always been tarty.
Out with those ghastly, clumpy platform louboutin shoes - very ugly.
The skinny belt is on last gasp, as wide belts make a comeback. And mini-skirts should be banned for anyone older than 30. A full-length mirror, for a good back view, should be mandatory. It could cure many fashion faux pas.
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